Tuesday, September 9, 2008
The Korean Way
Monday, September 1, 2008
August
I apologize for not being as loyal to you as Alison has been. August has no doubt been a busy month at work, but I know y'all don't care about that. So lets get into the exciting stuff. Watching the olympics here was really something to witness. While South Korea is a top medal contender every Olympics, they win about 1/4 the total number of what the USA wins, so every medal is celebrated. Some of the highlights of watching the Olympics here were watching Park Tae Hwan win the countries first ever gold in swimming, a Korean woman winning the gold in taekwondo, and of course watching the Korean baseaball team dominate, which culminated with Jordan, his girlfriend, Brady, and myself going to the local pro baseball stadium to watch the gold medal game versus powerhouse Cuba televised live. We were surrounded by 40,000 Korean baseball fans. Admittance was free, and tall boys are always just $3, so it was a cheap and fun time.
Jordan leaves in two weeks, so he and I went east for a man's weekend. We took the bus east to Chuncheon, which was alright, we managed to find a festival, but no real good activies, other than the carnival games. We only played one, I performed better, and was awarded with a yo-yo, but the lady felt bad for Jordan, and have him a big roman candle(which he carried with him for the rest of the day). We thought this might be the case, so we hopped on another bus and headed farther East to Inje, which is toted as the adventure sport capitol of South Korea. We managed to find a place by the river where we set up Jordan's tent. Then we made the 15 minute walk into town to find some dinner. We got some pizza and fried chicken at a local joint, and ate it in front of a convenience store down the road. While there we made friends with a guy that is a rafting a ice fishing guide. He gave us his number and e-mail address, so we are going to hook up with him again come ice fishing season. After we had stuffed our selves with food and beer, we hailed a cab back to our campsite and played some cards(and finally set off jordan's fireworks) before getting some sleep. We resisted the sun, but it finally woke us up around 8. We then made the walk into town again to figure out where we would raft/kayak. We figured out where we wanted to go and grabbed a cab, he dropped us off at this place up in the valley along a nice flowing river. We ended up using inflatable kayaks. Our guides were two guides about our age. The trip was about 2 hours and we got plenty of sun, and the water was cold, but felt great. After drying off we waited for the bus and took it back to our campsite. We then made the walk back into town again to find some food. We ate, chilled by the river. Then Jordan went bungee jumping from 63 meters over the river. Pictures to come later. We then made the walk back into town again, and then jordan realized he left his wallet at the bungee jump place. So he took a cab there and they had it, and then came back into town(this time in a cab cuz we had a bus to catch soon). Funny thing happened on the way back to the bus. We were walking down a hill towards the bus station and from behind us we hear a "Hey!" We turn around, and its our friend from the night before, and he asks, "did you find your wallet?" and were thinking how does he know Jordan lost his wallet? Turns out, the people at the bungee jump place went through Jordan's wallet and found this guy's number that he had given to us, and called him to try to find us. HAHA. It was such a small town, only 30,000 people. We will definitly be heading back to Inje again.
Friday, August 29, 2008
Sokcho
Sokcho is on Korea's East Coast, just a 4 1/2 hour bus ride from Seoul. The buses in Korea have the Greyhounds back home beat by like 200 times over. For just $44 per person round-trip we were treated to arm-chair sized leather seats with foot rests and a rest stop half-way there that American rest-stops could learn a thing or two from!
So, we hopped on the bus with a vague idea of what we would be doing over our 4 days there and had decided to pretty much just wing it. Sokcho appealed to us because it had both the beach and the mountains in close proximity. It turned out to be one of our absolute favorite trips we have taken so far and we are already making plans to return this fall!
Sam's family went to Sokcho during their trip to Korea and picked up a brochure for "The House" hostel. We tried to call ahead and make reservations, but ummm... forgot, so we thought we'd just see when we got there. The man who runs this place is super friendly and helpful and came and picked us up from the bus station to show us where the hostel was (it's a bit tricky to find). For just $30 a night we got a small, functional room with a bathroom, ac, a water cooler and a mini-fridge. We also got a modest (free!) breakfast each morning and there was a computer with internet access. Plus the lobby was super cute. The bathroom was a bit dicey, and if you're planning on heading out during the summer I would definitely make a reservation, we had to move rooms the 3rd night to a room with no AC (but they were nice enough to accomodate us even without the reservation).
Our first order of business was to check out Seoraksan National Park. As you can see, it was absolutely gorgeous. The entire time we were there was great hiking weather! The first day we took a short hike up to a waterfall and then the cable car up to a peak whose trails were closed.
Not a great picture, but I post it because when we got up to the waterfall everyone had their shoes off and was enjoying splashing around, and I was amazed by all the tiny kids they managed to haul up the literally 20+ flights of stairs that make up the end of the hike. (Plus, they couldn't get this kid to stop picking his nose for their own photo which kind of cracked me up.)

Sam and I split up on the 2nd day and we both had quite the adventure. Sam climbed the highest peak in the park (which I'm sure he will post about some day) and I decided to set off to find Hwajinpo, a small town north of Sokcho.
Let me just say that whoever writes directions for a certain very popular guidebook might need to be fired. For most of the day I thought I was lost in the Korean countryside and would probably not ever find my way back... but I ended up making to my final destination unscathed beside a minor sunburn from hiking in the direct sunlight (and slight embarassment because they neglect to mention that entrance they guide you to is actually a vehicle entrance so I waited in line with a car both in front of and behind me MUCH to the amusement of the woman at the ticket booth).
While there I was able to see this house, which is where the infamous Kim Jong Il summered as a child. It was pretty interesting, but maybe not so much worth the 1.5 hour bus ride each way and then half hour hike. If only that guidebook had told me there was a great beach nearby I would have brought my suit!
Our last morning there we decided to walk along the harbor and see the fishing boats that had just come in from their night's work. We got to see some fresh caught squid and guys working on their nets.
Then, we noticed these gentlemen gesturing at us and they invited us to sit down for some raw squid with chili paste. It was absolutely delicious! They spoke very little English, and we speak only a very little Korean, but we had a really nice conversation for about half an hour. They were super impressed that Sam climbed the mountain, and they all wanted to touch his beard.
After all that walking and climbing and such we decided to treat ourselves to the "Sokcho special" of... fried goodness. We got ALL of this food, plus the ddok bokki in the background for $2! The fried shrimp and fried pajeon were amazing, and I'm not even that big a fan of fried things.

So, there you have it, more than you ever wanted to know about our trip to Sokcho!
Tuesday, August 26, 2008
The DMZ
Then we headed up to Conference Row where the infamous Military Armistice Commission (MAC) Building is. This is the building where all meetings related to the 1953 Armistice Agreement take place and it straddles the line of demarcation... half of the building is in South Korea, half is in North Korea.
The table is marked down the middle. We are on the North Korean side.
A Hosack family portrait in North Korea.
The lighter side is North Korea, the darker side is the South.
This soldier is gaurding the door that opens onto the North Korean side. I kept my distance...
Soldiers stand only half-way exposed to the other side.
The Bridge of No Return. Where all POWs chose sides at the end of the war. Once you crossed over, you could never go back.
A view of North Korea's "Propoganda Village".
I don't feel like I got many great photos of this experience... probably because I was so nervous through the entire thing. I did manage to break both rules that we were given "don't place anyting on the tables in the MAC building" and do not point or gesture at the Northern side. I blame the 4:30am wake-up call.
However, the relationship between North and South Korea is improving all the time. Reunification is the ultimate goal of most citizens and there is no ill-will between the citizens of either country. A Free Trade Area has actually been established inside the DMZ and the Kim Jung Il has met with South Korean presidents several times. In fact, when we went to watch the World Cup Qualifying match between North and South Korea it ended in an obviously deliberate draw and the North Korean players received a standing ovation when they entered the stadium. However, the two countries are still technically at war, and the DMZ makes this abundantly clear. It was definitely a day we won't forget.
Saturday, August 16, 2008
Olympic Fever
Anyway, the Olympics are in as full a swing here in Korea as they are just about everywhere else in the world. It's just SO different to be watching them here than in the states, though! First, the sports that Korea excels in are completely different than the sports America does, except for swimming where Teawhan Park (and the rest of Korea) is not exactly loving Michael Phelps at the moment. Conversations about the Olympics and the TV broadcasting reflect this.
This week I had my kids do a free-write on the Olympics. First we talked about all of the different sports and other vocabulary and then I had them pretend that they were an Olympic athlete and write about what it was like to be in the Olympics and how they did there. The results were pretty funny, but they definitely showed some cultural differences. For example, do YOU know the name of the best US female archer? Because lots of girls in my classes wanted to be like Sunhyun Park or Ok-hee Yun, Korea's "bow and arrow queens". Other really popular sports were swimming, weightlifting, badminton, table tennis, handball, fencing, judo, tae kwon do and soccer.
As I said before the television coverage has really reflected what the country's athletes are best at. I have yet to see gymnastics, diving, beach volleyball, or some of the other more popular summer sports on TV. Although, the fact that we haven't been able to locate a TV schedule might have something to do with this. However, being exposed to different sports has been kind of neat. I have to say, those Korean lady handball players show a lot of heart and never give up! And did you know that the badminton shuttlecock can travel at speeds between 100-200mph during a match between experts?
We'll be traveling to Beijing in September and are excited to see all of the buildings that were constructed for the Olympics. For now, though, enjoy the games!
Monday, August 11, 2008
Weekend Update
Wednesday, August 6, 2008
Well, That Was Odd...
1. While innocently waiting for the bus to my Korean lesson a few weeks ago a middle-aged woman came up to me and just started chatting me up in Korean. I politely told her (in Korean) that I, um, don't speak Korean. This did not really seem to deter her, so she just kept chatting away until she finally asks me (in English) "Do you believe in Jesus Christ?" I tell her, "Yes, I do" and she smiles. Thinking this is the end of the exchange I go back to staring into space and waiting for the bus to show up and then I hear her speaking again. From behind me. And then she is stroking my hair. And doing the full on reach-around face stroke. And praying over me (I'm 90% sure) in Korean. Loudly. While everyone else looked at me and I just kind of sat there thinking, "Well, I sure didn't see THIS coming!" I waited until she'd gotten done with one particulary vexing knot in my hair (seriously, she was all up in there) and then made a break for the cab that had just pulled up.
2. While in Sokcho this past week we had a fabulous time. One day we were on the way to the bus stop from our hostel and Sam realized he had forgotten something. So, he ran back up while I waited for him down on the street. I suddenly see an older gentleman approaching me and he smiles and waves so I smile. And then he grabs my arm. And starts kissing it. The upper shoulder part. After a very firm "Aniyo!" and a gentle shove I turned around and walked back up to the hostel. I saw the same guy 3 times that week, but managed to avoid further incident with the Sokcho Stalker (as I now refer to him in my head).
Since both of these incidents happened in broad daylight on a busy street they didn't freak me out too much. In fact, 90% of the encounters we have with Koreans are very pleasant. They were more just funny stories that make me shake my head and say once again, "Only in Korea."